Sanxia, 1 Shaanxi Lu (tel.023-6355-5555). The Sanxia is the best budget option by the port, offering a range of different kinds of rooms, all of which are clean and the better ones have views over the river. $-$$
Where to Eat
Chongqing is reputedly the home of hotpot (huoguo) and is a great place to sample this spicy bubbling broth. But if you can't take the heat there are regular Chinese restaurants along with the usual Western fast-food options, most of which are found around Jiefangbei. Many Chinese restaurants don't have English menus, but in hotpot places the food to be put into the pot is often on display, so you can just point at what you want.
See Travel & Living Information, Food & Drink, for an explanation of restaurant price codes.
American Cowboy, 173, Renmin Lu (daily 11 am-10 pm). If you're visiting the Three Gorges Museum or the People's Concert Hall, then you could pop into this hotpot restaurant, where the choices are laid out buffet-style for you to select, although there are better places in the center of town. $$
Canglong Hotpot, 19, Cangbai Lu (daily 9 am-midnight). A popular place, which serves the yuan-yang style of hotpot, meaning you can choose if you want it cooked in the spicy broth or its less potent, but still delicious, alternative. $$
Common Tales, 3F Nanguo Lijing Building, 46Cangbai Lu (daily 9:30 am-midnight). Although the décor resembles a school canteen more than a great restaurant, this place serves some seriously spicy hotpot and enjoys good views over the Jialing River. $$
Daxigoudian Hexi Hotpot, 125 Renmin Lu (daily 9 am-midnight). On the northern side of the People's Concert Hall this is another hotpot place with a range of options including pots divided into four sections to make finding your food easier! $$
Lao Szechuan, Minzu Lu, next to KFC and the Huixian Lou Hotel (daily 10:30 am-2 pm & 4:30-9 pm). As you might guess from the name, this place specializes in spicy Szechuan food and includes favorites such as gongbao jiding (diced chicken with chili and peanuts) and yuxiang rousi (fish-flavored pork). They have a limited English menu. $$-$$$
Nightlife
Chongqing's nightlife options are fairly limited, but you'll find a few bars and clubs around Jiefangbei and all the major hotels have reasonable places for a drink – the Cotton Club is near the Marriott and has live music from its house band six nights a week.
The Three Gorges
The Three Gorges have been hailed as one of China's greatest sights for nearly 2,000 years, and they remain undeniably spectacular. However, the building of the world's biggest dam at Sandouping has consequences not only for the people and wildlife of the region, but also for its natural beauty. In spite of the dangers, part of the allure of the gorges was their swirling currents and the sheer height of the cliff walls; when the dam is completed, the gorges will appear some 400 feet lower than they were, and the raging river will be a placid 375-mile-long lake. For these reasons the rush to see the gorges before 2009 is on and, although the government is actually predicting an increase in visitors after completion, tour operators anticipate dwindling numbers as the water level rises.
Cruises
Cruises operate between Chongqing and Yichang, Wuhan or even Shanghai, but the crucial Three Gorges stretch runs between Baidicheng and the dam site at Sandouping. Ferries and cruise boats both offer splendid views of the gorges themselves and also stop at a collection of temples along the way. As you'd expect, the more you pay, the classier the vessel and the onboard services and facilities should be. Cruises typically last three nights for the Chongqing-to-Yichang section, but some of the upscale boats go at a more leisurely pace and can take as long as five days for this stretch, longer if they travel as far as Wuhan.
Types of Cruise
There are three principal styles of travel along the river: international and domestic cruise boats, ferries (which stop at all the tourist sights) and, finally, the 13-hour straight-through hydrofoil, which offers no more than a fleeting visit and is only worthwhile if you have financial or time constraints.
Cruise Boats
Some international cruise boats are effectively hotels on water and offer essentially the same facilities as you'd expect in a good hotel, although rooms are understandably a little smaller. Most rooms will have river views (check when you book) and the suites can be positively luxurious. Domestic cruisers can be nearly as good, but equally may not. Also, damp rooms and variable water temperature in the bathrooms can be issues. Facilities on the better ships might include a gym, as well as several lounges and dining areas, plus expansive viewing decks. Cruisers of all standards may offer the chance to learn something about Chinese culture,fromtai chito mah jong, and in the evenings you can usually enjoy some evening entertainment in the form of a show, disco or the ubiquitous karaoke.
On the better boats, all meals and excursions are generally included in the price. The only things you should have to pay for are drinks. Drinks are generally signed for and the bill is settled on the final evening. A few drinks are usually included with meals but, outside of these times, beverages (especially alcohol) and snacks tend to be drastically overpriced. So it's worth stocking up in Chongqing or Yichang. It's also customary to tip the boat staff and a recommended amount is often mentioned, but pay what you think befits the service you've received.
If you're booking a cheaper cruise, you should check exactly what is included in terms of excursions – frequently these are “extra" options which you will have to pay for. No matter what style of cruise you choose, you may find the schedule and guiding to be somewhat authoritarian and controlling, with musical wake-up calls and demands over the loudspeaker system that passengers assemble “immediately" for sightseeing excursions! Guides on the better boats should be of a good standard, but on cheaper cruises their English ability can range from excellent to unintelligible. However, given that most of what they are talking about on board relates to the perceived shapes of rocks, and that separate guides are available for onshore trips, this isn't crucial.
Ferries
Yangzi tourist boat
Ferries are at the bottom of the line, but really not that bad given the price. They manage to zip along from Chongqing to Yichang (or vice versa) in around 40 hours. Prices are as follows:
1st Class in a two-berth cabin – $1,022
2nd Class in a four-berth cabin – $463-510
3rd Class in a six-berth cabin – $297-327
4th Class in an eight-berth cabin – $229-252
There are cheaper classes, where you simply claim a space on the floor, but these are best avoided unless you have no choice or want to take the term “adventure travel" to its limits. All excursions, meals and drinks are extra, so budget (and stock up) accordingly. In terms of the excursions, you'll be approached the second you step off the boat – see the relevant sections under Sightseeing for approximate prices. Make sure you arrive back at the boat by the designated time as ferries aren't averse to leaving without tardy passengers.
Booking a Cruise
The Three Gorges are one of China's premier tourist attractions and a must-see on many people's lists. Cruises sell out quickly in peak season when it's worth booking at least a week in advance, and two months or more for the better international boats. As a single traveler, whatever kind of boat you choose, you'll have to pay a supplement if you want a twin room to yourself.