I’m no old Africa hand, and what I’d seen of Abyssinia so far had jaundiced rather than impressed, but I’m bound to say that the Lake Tana country is as close to earthly paradise as I’ve ever struck, for scenery at least. From Azez to Gorgora on the northern shore is nothing out of the ordinary, but the lake itself beats anything in Switzerland or Italy, a great blue shimmering inland sea fringed by tropical forest, hills, and meadows, for all the world like a glorious garden of exotic flowers and shrubs in groves of splendid trees and ferns. The woods are alive with birds of every colour and size, from tiny feathered mites hardly bigger than butterflies to the mighty hornbill, a black-and-white monster as big as a man, braying as it rushes overhead like some flying dragon. There’s an abundance of game, deer and antelopes and monkeys everywhere, buffalo ranging on the slopes, huge hippos surging and bellowing in the lake itself, and the biggest snakes in Africa, twenty-foot pythons in shining coats of many colours, gliding through the shallows.
Good camels can cover the ground as quickly as horses, and we made our first-night camp in a little palm grove only a few miles from the lake. Uliba said it would be safer to steer clear of Gorgora, so next morning we made a bee-line for the western shore and the cover of the jungly forest. It had not been determined precisely where on Tana the groom should turn back with the camels, and when Uliba said we’d like to take them as far as the Abai source he had severe conniptions; he was one of your tough, lean Abs who run like stags, and had kept up easily with his long loping stride, but he was shot if he was going to venture any nearer the dreaded “Negus Toowodros" (* “Theodore, King of Kings".) than he had to; everyone knew of the carnage that had been wreaked south of the lake, of the burning and blinding and hacking off of ears and noses; why, all Metcha was a smoking desert.
Uliba came the headmistress with him, but he wasn’t to be moved, and it was only when she’d offered him twenty dollars and he’d beaten her up to thirty that he reluctantly agreed to come as far as Adeena, near the foot of the lake.
“We could have killed him and kept the camels,” says Uliba as we rode on our way with the groom trotting moodily after, “but he might have fought, and what is thirty dollars?” I wondered if she’d have expected me to do the dirty deed; knowing her style, prob ably not.
It took us the best part of the day to reach Adeena, a little fishing village in a pretty clearing by the shore. They were almost the first folk we’d seen since leaving Azez, friendly enough peasants but, like our groom, apprehensive of what lay farther south, and thankful that Theodore’s campaign of terror had not touched them so far. Zage and Baheerdar had been razed to the ground and all the people killed or driven away; yes, Theodore’s soldiers were still at Kourata across the lake; but no, nothing would induce them to ferry us any where near the city—or indeed, even down the coast. Having seen their boats, crazy coracles of woven bulrushes that were perma nently waterlogged, I was happy to continue our journey on foot.
To Uliba’s fury, our groom, gossiping at the evening meal which we shared with the village headman, mentioned that we were on our way to find Queen Masteeat. It seemed harmless to me, but she was spitting blood later when she explained that the nearer we got to our goal, the greater our danger, with Theodore’s lances on hand. “I knew we should have slit the chattering bastard’s throat! Well, he has our dollars, but we’ll not bid him goodbye. When all are asleep, do you take the saddle-bags from the camels, and we’ll be away before dawn!”
It seemed to me she was starting at shadows. “These folk hate Theodore more than you do! They ain’t going to give us away.”
“And is their hate greater than their fear? Will they be silent if Theodore’s riders chance this way? We are not safe this side of the Silver Smoke. The camels could carry us there in a day, but to steal away with them by night might bring a hue and cry down on us.”
So we took French leave of Adeena in the small hours, slipping through the shadows with such stealth that I doubt if more than half the population heard us go, but they paid us no mind, pre sumably turning over and thanking God to be rid of a pair of unwel come guests. There was a good moon, and with Uliba surefooted as ever it was a pleasant promenade through the shadowy groves until the light went and the chilly mist came in off the water. Then we built a fire, had a welcome snack of the monastery’s bread and ham washed down with tej, and rolled up together in one blanket, keeping warm in the jolliest way I know.
Next morning we rounded the bay which is the south-western limit of Tana, both in high spirits in the sunshine, swinging along like Phyllis and Corydon in Arcady, with not the least foreboding of the horror ahead. There were a few fishers abroad on the lake, staying afloat for a wonder, and we passed a couple of villages where the peasantry seemed to be taking no harm as they loafed about in their plots. We nooned in a secluded cove where a few water-fowl were disporting themselves out beyond the shallows, and Uliba asked me if I fancied duck for tiffin. I said by all means, if she’d catch them, and she laughed and asked, if she killed ’em, would I fetch ’em ashore? Kill away, says I, wondering, and she picked up a handful of pebbles from the beach, juggled them from hand to hand, and all of a sudden whipped them away like a fast bowler, side-arm, one-two-three! And blessed if she didn’t crack the heads of two ducks and lay a third squawking and thrashing in the water!
She’d told me of the Gallas’ skill with missiles, but I’d not have believed it if I hadn’t seen it. I plunged in and retrieved the poultry, full of congratulation, but she made light of it, saying they had been real sitting birds, and next time she would bring one down on the wing. Again, I believed her. An odd thing: none of the other ducks had so much as stirred, and she told me that the birds and beasts of Lake Tana were so tame that they never minded hunters, not stir ring even when the critter beside them was hit.
It was such a glorious day that we swam in the lake, icy cold as it was, and I have a happy memory of LTliba sitting on a smooth black rock like the little mermaid, naked, wet and shining.
We made good time in the afternoon, leaving the forest for a more broken and rocky shoreline, and I noticed that we saw fewer folk along the way, and at last none at all. That was the moment when I caught a drift on the air of that same flat stale stench there had been at Gondar, and Uliba stopped, head raised, and said: “Zage.”
We had crossed a few streams running through the rocks into the lake, and now we came to another, a small river really, with steep banks, and as we prepared to descend the weather changed with that speed so typical of Abyssinia, and a storm of hail came down like grapeshot, great lumps the size of schoolboys’ marbles that drove us under cover and churned the river mouth and lake surface into foam. You could barely hear yourself speak above the rattle of the downpour, but Uliba was laughing as she pointed to the stream and shouted: “Little Abai! Only a few miles farther now!”
I couldn’t make this out: the stream was flowing into the lake, and I knew the Abai, which is the Blue Nile, should run out of Tana—and thereby hangs a tale, which I heard first from Uliba as we crouched under the broad leaves of a baobab to shelter from the hailstorm, and again years later from the Great Bore of the Nile himself, Daft Dick Burton, at the Travellers’ Club. He had a most tremendous bee in his bonnet about it, with which I’ll not weary you beyond saying that the Little Abai runs into Lake Tana west of the town of Zage, and out again east of the town, when it becomes ¦the Great Abai and eventually joins the White Nile which rises ’way up yonder in Lake Victoria—or so I gathered from Burton, who was full of bile against the chaps who’d discovered it. God knows why: he’d ha’ fought with his own shadow, that one. [35]