“Twenty-one minutes,” the Deacon shouted back, putting his watch away.
I could see Jean-Claude shake his head. He was wearing a floppy red stocking cap, not quite a beret. “I could do it in half that time with more practice. And…,” he looked straight down through the V of his widened legs, “…fewer ice screws, I think.”
“You’ve shown us, Jean-Claude,” shouted the Deacon. “You’ve proven your new hardware! It’s brilliant. Now come on down!”
The figure leaning back in his harness straps almost 200 feet above us shook his head. He shouted something that neither the Deacon nor I could make out.
“I said—‘to the top,’” he shouted again, looking straight down at us between his legs again.
I was actually wringing my hands with anxiety, which made little sense since I was the sheer-face rock climber of the three of us. I was supposed to love this kind of vertical test—lots of exposure and fissured rock and even some modest overhangs for an extra challenge. But this…this was suicide.
I realized then that I really hated ice. And the idea of going up Mount Everest with these stupid harnesses and all this clanking metal—“bloody ironmongers” was what the British climbers derisively called the Germans and the few French who were using metal carabiners, pitons, and such on tough rock faces and slopes—seemed suddenly obscene. Obscene and absurd.
I also realized at that moment how nervous I was. I’d never felt this tense climbing on high alpine ledges, ridges, faces, summits, or slopes with these two men.
I looked up expecting J.C. to begin his descent. He had enough rope left that he could rappel a good part of the way. If he trusted those damned ice screws.
Instead of rappelling or scuttling down the way he’d gone up, Jean-Claude Clairoux then did something that to this day, more than sixty-five years later, I do not believe.
First, a strap still connecting his chest harness to the ice screw he’d just put in at the topmost section of the vertical part of the wall, J.C. leaned back until it was just the tension of that five-foot leash holding him almost horizontally on the ice. He then drove both hammers into the overhang ice as far out as he could reach. Then J.C. raised his feet—I had to look away it was so appalling, then looked back to watch him fall—and planted his crampons and toe crampons firmly in the corner where vertical wall and horizontal overhang came together.
Somehow he hung there horizontally with one arm supporting the weight of his entire body while he drove in a deep screw—he had to bang on it to get it in the last few centimeters, and I heard steel going into solid rock under the ice—then he clipped a carabiner and a sort of double tether leash to that and let himself down until he was hanging horizontally only from the ropes, perhaps seven feet beneath the overhang.
Then, using his steel crampon tips against the vertical wall on each inward oscillation, he began to pendulum-swing back and forth, completely dependent upon that one ice screw and the rope, no point of his body in contact with the wall or overhang except when he kicked harder each time to pendulum out further.
“Mother of God,” whispered the Deacon. Or perhaps I did. I really no longer remember.
But I do remember Jean-Claude’s outer pendulum motion under that 20-foot-wide overhang stopping when he banged both ice axes into the ice ceiling above him. Only one held, but he pulled himself higher so that there was slack in the rope tether, from which he was dangling horizontally. He kicked until both sets of points at the front of his rigid-shank boots were attached to the ceiling again. Then he pounded in the other ice axe.
All good climbers have to be strong. Look at our forearms and you will see bulk and muscles rare in any other athlete and missing from almost all “normal” people. But to hang there like that, suspending the full weight of his fully horizontal body—more than horizontal, since his head was lower than his boots cramponed into the ice—to hold on using only the strength of his hands on two short ice axes, the strength of those two forearms and upper arms. Impossible.
But he did.
Then he released one of the ice axes. His left hand fumbled on his harness belt for an ice screw from the dangling bag of hardware.
It slipped out of fingers that must have been close to nerveless by then, and fell 200 feet. The Deacon and I stepped aside as the long screw bounced off a low boulder between us, sending up sparks against the snow all around.
J.C. calmly reached for another screw, righting the carrying bag so no more hardware tumbled out. Shifting hands on the embedded ice axes so his weight was now supported by his left hand, Jean-Claude calmly screwed in that final ice anchor. He had to use the small steel ice tool from his belt to get it through the last of the ice, then pound it into the underlying rock. Why he didn’t come off the overhang when he did that work, I’ll never understand.
His next move—after letting out another seven or eight feet of harnessed leash—was to dangle, head and feet lower than his supported torso, and swing wildly back and forth. The far point of his outer swing took him out further than the edge of the overhang. Back and forth he went, and I waited for the sight and sound of both of the screws set into the ice ceiling popping out, sending him hurtling 30 or 60 feet down and back into the ice wall, almost certainly rendering him unconscious. One of us would have to ice-climb the fixed rope to retrieve our unconscious or dead friend. I didn’t want it to be me.
Instead of peeling off, Jean-Claude’s arc went beyond and above the edge of the overhang, and on the second swing at that distance, he banged in the curved picks of both ice hammers.
Freeing one at a time, he pulled himself higher, again just with the strength of arms and forearms that must be shaking with tension and toxins by now.
Seven feet up the 12-foot outside vertical wall of the ice overhang, he kicked the toes of his new-style ice-climbing crampons into the ice and calmly screwed in the last piece of steel protection he needed. The only sign of J.C.’s great fatigue—or perhaps the backwash of adrenaline that always gets a climber’s hands and fingers shaking after the fact in a truly terrifying situation—was that after he’d clipped in a carabiner and used Y tethers to tie into both his chest and belt harness, he leaned back from the short ice wall at about 40 degrees to rest a couple of minutes. His short ice axes dangled from his wrist straps. Even from more than 200 feet below, I could see him clenching and unclenching the fingers of both hands.
Then he grasped both ice axes, straightened up, and began hacking and climbing again.
The Deacon and I watched him lean over the top of the overhang, sink his right ice hammer point into something, and then he pulled himself up and out of sight over the edge.
A minute later he was standing near that edge, taking the remnants of the coil of rope from over his shoulder, and shouting down at us.
“I have about a hundred feet left,” came the echoing, triumphant shout. “I’ve tied both off—we’ll want two ropes for belay—so bring up around another hundred feet of rope, the thicker stuff, the Deacon’s Miracle Rope, that I brought, in the second bag, and you can tie it on halfway up. Who’s next?”
The Deacon and I looked at each other.
Again, I was the “big face” rock climber of the trio. I was the one who would be expected to free-climb rock on Everest, say, if we ever reached that battleship prow of the so-called Second Step near the summit along the North East Ridge above 28,000 feet.
But for the moment, I was terrified.
“I’m next,” said the Deacon and, shrugging on a 100-foot coil of J.C.’s “good rope,” walked up to the ice wall with both ice hammers raised.
None of us wanted to stay in that pathetic inn again in Cerrigydrudion or anyplace close to Wales, so the Deacon drove us all the way back to London through the dusk and long, dark night. The Vauxhall’s headlights were still little more than useless, but once on the real highways again after dark, he tucked the Vauxhall in behind various lorries and we followed them closely, using their tiny little red taillights as our guide. We’d taken time to wrestle and button and snap the roof, windows, and side flaps back into place. Somehow the heater seemed to be working at last (or perhaps it was just our overheated bodies), and Jean-Claude was sprawled across the cushions and gear bags in the backseat, snoring all the way home. When the Deacon and I talked, it was in low, almost reverent voices. I kept thinking about the incredible day and the incredible revelations Jean-Claude had given us.