We reach Yakawlang in the afternoon, refuel the vehicles and eat a meal of kebabs. The town has an unhappy air and looks as though it’s suffered from recent fighting, which a number of abandoned armoured vehicles confirm. We don’t want to linger, and drive south into the mountains towards Panjab. There’s almost no wheeled traffic, but we pass several families struggling on foot with their possessions piled onto donkeys, and a woman clutching a child begs us for money. The desperation in her expression is obvious and she claims the Taliban have forced her from her home. Her face and gestures haunt me like a presence as we drive further south along a deteriorating route, and our pace slows to a crawl. Several times we catch sight of trucks which have fallen from the road and tumbled into the ravines below.
As we near the Isharat Pass, the lead vehicle has its first puncture, and while Aref and Sher Del are changing the wheel, H and I get out to admire the spectacular scenery.
‘It’s not like anywhere I’ve ever seen,’ he says. ‘Every part of it’s different, like a different country. You could never win a war here.’
I ask him why not.
‘It’s the people. They belong too much. They’d never give it up.’
We’re looking over to the east where about thirty miles away the highest peaks of the Koh-e Baba range rear up from among the lesser summits in a magnificent glistening knot of ice. A purplish haze is settling over the landscape and after the relentless lurching of the route the silence is almost overwhelming. Quietly, H recites the lines of a poem.
‘We are the pilgrims, master; we shall go
Always a little further: it may be
Beyond the last blue mountain barred with snow
Across that angry or that glimmering sea
‘Regimental poem,’ he says as if emerging from a private trance. ‘Don’t know the rest.’ He looks back over the darkening mountains. ‘I’m glad I came. This is a special place.’
‘There’s some things I haven’t told you,’ I say.
‘That’s normal,’ he says. ‘There’s stuff I haven’t told you either.’
‘Like what?’
‘You killed a mate of mine, for one thing,’ he says after a pause.
The fact that this doesn’t make any sense to me does nothing to lessen the shock.
‘How? When?’
‘In Kuwait. The team that busted your Lebanese mate out. They were all Regiment blokes. You took out the team leader.’
For years I’ve never really understood why the man I killed hesitated when he was about to shoot me.
‘I didn’t know,’ I say.
‘You weren’t supposed to. It was a Special Projects op. We had the order to go in as an Israeli team. Weirdest thing is that it was going to be me leading it.’ He smiles. ‘You would have slotted me instead.’
‘I’m sorry about your friend.’
‘Kenny was his name. He was from up north, Glasgow, I think. Couldn’t understand a word he said half the time. I nearly killed him myself once on a hostage rescue practice. That’s the way it is.’ He brushes some dust from his arm. ‘Anyway, what aren’t you telling me?’
I wonder how much I should say, but the power of the land has stripped us of our secrets now, and there seems no purpose in hiding anything from him any longer. So I tell him what I can, because I cannot tell him everything, right up to my meeting with Manny in Kabul, and about the plan that we made together in the ruins of the Darul Aman Palace.
At dusk we stop in a tiny settlement and the five of us sleep on the floor of a small room in our sleeping bags. In the morning the old man who provided our accommodation brings a bundle wrapped in newspaper and says he wants to show us something very old. He unwraps a dozen small yellowish figurines that do indeed look very old, and tells us they come from somewhere nearby and that they date from the time of the Younan, the Greeks. The faces are carved from some sort of bone or tusk and portray a series of men with staring eyes and long moustaches wearing crowns or ornate headbands. They look more like the faces of the Lewis chessmen than anything from this part of the world, and it’s impossible not to wonder what uncharted portion of the region’s history they really belong to. Then he shows us an enigmatic oval-shaped stone medallion depicting a soldier with a lance, wearing a kilt-like skirt and sandals with long leather straps like a centurion’s. The script resembles nothing I’ve even seen.
We skirt north of Panjab the next morning and begin the slow and winding route towards the south-west that will take us out of Bamiyan province and into Oruzgan. It takes us five days. The landscape seems ever more wild and beautiful and untouched by the world beyond. An entire day is spent losing and refinding the correct route, driving into valleys where the track ends at the foot of a mountain or dissolves into a rock-strewn wilderness. Aref surprises me by remembering that he has some old maps in the pickup, and produces them the next morning. They’re 1:200K Soviet military maps from the 1980s, and they’re far better than the ones we’ve got. It takes a little longer to transliterate the place names, which are printed in Cyrillic script, into English and then into Persian, but they’re extraordinarily detailed.
The problem is that the locals we ask have no idea of the names of villages only a few miles distant and give us contradictory directions because they’ve never driven there and travel on paths where we can’t. To the villagers we are like aliens from a distant planet, and whenever we stop we are endlessly questioned as to where we come from by men who are barely aware that there’s even a war going on.
In one village we are sung to by a melancholy blind man who predicts that our journey will end in fire. In another we meet a man with a dancing bear, and are shown the grave of a teenage boy whose body is said to have remained intact and undecayed more than three years after his death. At another we give a lift to an old man with a club foot and a fat-tailed sheep from one end of the valley to another. By the time we are a day’s drive away from the fort, it’s our own mission that seems unreal, and the strangeness of our surroundings that has become real.
When we reach Sarnay, beyond a spectacular final pass that crests between two 13,000-foot peaks, it’s as if we’ve broken free of the grasp of the mountains. There are still some high peaks beyond us, but nothing over 10,000 feet, and the route we’re planning to follow stays on the valley floor from now on. But in the mehman-khana where we settle for the evening there’s news from an unexpected quarter.
There’s a wiry jovial old man staying in the place, who’s walked with his donkey from a village about ten miles away called Daymalek. He sits among us as the owner of the place lights several oil lanterns and puts them on the floor near us, and tells the story of how he used to smuggle weapons on his donkey past a Soviet checkpoint in the days of the jihad.
‘He’s a big smuggler,’ Aref jokes with him, ‘famous across Afghanistan.’
The old man wheezes with delight.
‘What are you smuggling these days, Hajji?’ asks Sher Del teasingly. ‘Come on, we won’t tell.’
‘Donkeys!’ exclaims the old man, and a ripple of laughter spreads through the room. ‘Right under the noses of those cursed Arabs!’ He chuckles.
But at this we all fall silent, and the old man looks at our faces wondering what it is he’s said.
‘Hajji,’ says Aref, ‘there are no Arabs around here.’
‘Wallah,’ he says. ‘By God there are. Where the roads meet between Sharow and Dasht, not half a day’s walk from here. A cultureless people,’ he adds dismissively. ‘I’ve heard Arabic, and I know what it sounds like. They’re Arabs alright. They dress wrong too.’
And suddenly we all know it’s time to revise our plan because this means there’s an al-Qaeda checkpoint further down the valley.
In the morning when we’re alone, we gather over the maps. There’s no other way out of the valley except through the checkpoint, but we’re all agreed that if there really are al-Qaeda there, they won’t take kindly to the presence of foreigners.