“I want to find out about the kids,” Jim said.
“You mean why they’re on the train?”
“Why they’re on the train.”
Their presence worried him too. It must be an enormous undertaking to move so many children. Why was it being done?
We started moving back toward their cars. When we opened the door we saw dim lights and hard seats, and smelled their odor again. These were not the normal Amtrak cars, but old commuters with ceiling fans and dim bulbs, obviously put on at the last moment. They rattled and swayed. The night wind bellowed in the windows. The trainmen were giving out blankets and sheets, which the children made into beds on the seats and the floor. There was a gravity among them that was deeply unsettling, as if this bedmaking were the most important thing in the world, and these blankets were valuable beyond price.
Other passengers were coming back too, bringing food and water bags and whatever else they could spare. Soon the cooks appeared, bearing what later proved to be every scrap of Amtrak food in the train. But there were so many of them, and I know that the great majority must have gone hungry that night.
Jim found one of the adult supervisors at the rear of the car.
She could have been thirty years old, or fifty, it was hard to tell. A little boy slept with his head in her lap, a girl of twelve with her head on her shoulder. She held a baby in her arms. Another baby lay in the girl’s arms. “We’re writing a book,” Jim said. “Can we talk to you?”
She smiled. “I guess so, if you don’t wake anybody up. I got some mighty tired kids on this train.”
“Are you the only supervisor?”
“Lord, no! I’d be dead! There are ten of us with this group, one for every hundred kids.”
“How did you get your job?”
“Well, I have my Master’s in early-childhood education from Bank Street, and I have a degree in child psychology. But I didn’t get the job on qualifications. I was with the State Department of Social Work before the war. Afterward we found ourselves with tremendous numbers of orphans. It was natural that anybody in the Welfare Department who knew anything at all about kids, or just liked them, would end up doing what I’m doing.”
“Why are they on the train?”
She smiled again. “These children are being transferred to an institution in Alabama. We’ve been informed by the Department of Agriculture that there’s going to be another grain emergency by April, so we’re evacuating them to a better-fed area. We do not want to go through another famine the way we went through the last one. My unit buried an awful lot of children. That will not happen again, not if there is any way on God’s earth to prevent it.”
We returned to our own car. An hour passed. For a while I stared at my own reflection in the window. Haggard, thin, cadaverous even. I hadn’t shaved since I was at Quinn’s, in California. I was greasy and grungy and totally exhausted.
Jim read the Philadelphia Inquirer and then slept I felt frightened, as if the delicate balance of the future were swaying and trembling with the movement of the train.
When I was twenty-two I went this way in a Volkswagen, on my way home from New York to San Antonio for a family reunion.
Years later I went in my Mercedes, through the Smokies and across the back of the South, through the piney woods of Arkansas and the hot plains of northeast Texas.
I went also in a bus, broke, hungry, too. And work one year when it was too long between checks from publishers.
My life has been punctuated by journeys between Texas and New York.
I can remember coming this way with my father, and seeing barefoot children with fishing poles in the Cumberland Valley and longing from my luxurious Pullman drawing room to be one of them.
To be a child.
I am tired of trains, tired of travel. Now that it’s almost finished, I wonder what will become of this new book. These days it is not easy to gain publication, and the distribution of books is a difficult process.
I am very used to the rattle of trains, the smell of trains, the mood of travelers. In these past six weeks we have seen a fair sample of the country. And we have learned some things. America is changing, profoundly and probably irrevocably. In a few years there will be a kind of country here with as few references to us as we have to, say, the Kennedy years. Maybe fewer.
There is death in this, certainly, and the collapse of old ways.
But there is also this other thing, which I heard again and again, in the voices along the road. I know it, and yet I cannot seem to put it down in words, except that it is America in us, the promise and the children. It is the common dream of gold—the golden valley, the golden door, the gold in the hills, the gold at the end of the rainbow.
The night deepens and the old diesel’s horn sounds and sounds.
This is another of those bumpy, slow routes around one of the dead areas, in this case Washington.
I close my eyes. Music comes into my mind, soft and slow, the music of the swaying car and the dark. I remember, so well, when I was a child.
JIM
My Final Image
When Whitley and I arrived in New York, I realized that, emotionally, I had reached the end of the journey. For me, New York exemplified the whole experience—both the folly of the war and the drama of our effort to recover.
Morgan Moore didn’t talk much about his present project, but I must say that the dismantling of the World Trade Center is a work of tremendous energy and vision. Everything is being done on a gigantic scale. Massive devices pull wiring out onto huge wheels, drawing it like the meat from a crab claw. Dozens of scaffolds hang down from the towers, with men on them loosening sheathing while others work with cranes, taking the plates to the ground.
Inside the buildings, window crews dismantle the good glass, floor crews take up usable wood and linoleum, decoration crews remove furniture. Behind all this, Morgan Moore sits in his command trailer, manipulating a sophisticated new Toshiba computer and talking to his people over an elaborate communications system.
I went as far as the thirtieth story in the elevator that they have rigged along the side of the South Tower. From there I saw the whole of New York Harbor, from the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge between Staten Island and the black ruins of Brooklyn to the Statue of Liberty. I could see the arm and torch lying at the base of the great statue. Even if New York remains uninhabited, that statue ought to be restored—even moved, maybe to Philadelphia.
Moore has twelve workmen, all paid in gold on the basis of the market value of their salvage. Some of these men, skilled wire-pullers for example, can make the extraordinary salary of ten gold dollars a week.
But I could not love Morgan Moore’s salvage operation. I could only think of the city before the war, with the sun on its towers and the throngs in its streets. It was a great work of art, New York, made up of millions of sophisticated, convoluted lives.
I find that I cannot really say much about it. It was Whitley’s home, and fortunately writing about it has been his responsibility.
Instead, I am going to turn to other events that occurred toward the end of our journey.
We were unable to arrange a flyover of Washington. The Army refused without giving a reason. I think maybe the military is ashamed of losing the capital city.
Our money was nearly gone, which didn’t matter much, since we couldn’t leave the train once we crossed the Mason–Dixon line and entered the South, an area of the country almost as economically healthy as California. As long as one stays in the through-car there’s no problem, so we watched Virginia and Tennessee pass by the window. We had neither the funds nor the emotional energy to do a repetition of California and become fugitives.