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was perhaps the most horrible I ever passed. Crushed with a sense of

uttermost fatigue, I could get no rest. From time to time a sort of

doze crept upon me, and I said to myself, “Now I shall sleep”; but on

the very edge of slumber, at the moment when I was falling into

oblivion, a hand seemed to pluck me back into consciousness. In the

same instant there gleamed before my eyes a little circle of fire,

which blazed and expanded into immensity, until its many-coloured glare

beat upon my brain and thrilled me with torture. No sooner was the

intolerable light extinguished than I burst into a cold sweat; an icy

river poured about me; I shook, and my teeth chattered, and so for some

minutes I lay in anguish, until the heat of fever re-asserted itself,

and I began once more to toss and roll. A score of times was this

torment repeated. The sense of personal agency forbidding me to sleep

grew so strong that I waited in angry dread for that shock which

aroused me; I felt myself haunted by a malevolent power, and rebelled

against its cruelty.

Through the night no one visited me. At eight in the morning a knock

sounded at the door, and there entered the waiter, carrying a tray with

my ordinary breakfast. “The Signore is not well?” he remarked, standing

to gaze at me. I replied that I was not quite well; would he give me

the milk, and remove from my sight as quickly as possible all the other

things on the tray. A glimpse of butter in its cheese-rind had given me

an unpleasant sensation. The goat’s milk I swallowed thankfully, and,

glad of the daylight, lay somewhat more at my ease awaiting Dr. Sculco.

He arrived about half-past nine, and was agreeably surprised to find me

no worse. But the way in which his directions had been carried out did

not altogether please him. He called the landlady, and soundly rated

her. This scene was interesting, it had a fine flavour of the Middle

Ages. The Doctor addressed mine hostess of the Concordia as “thou,”

and with magnificent disdain refused to hear her excuses; she, the

stout, noisy woman, who ruled her own underlings with contemptuous

rigour, was all subservience before this social superior, and whined to

him for pardon. “What water is this?” asked Dr. Sculco, sternly, taking

up the corked jar that stood on the floor. The hostess replied that it

was drinking water, purchased with good money. Thereupon he poured out

a little, held it up to the light, and remarked in a matter-of-fact

tone, “I don’t believe you.”

However, in a few minutes peace was restored, and the Doctor prescribed

anew. After he had talked about quinine and cataplasms, he asked me

whether I had any appetite. A vision of the dining-room came before me,

and I shook my head. “Still,” he urged, “it would be well to eat

something.” And, turning to the hostess, “He had better have a

beefsteak and a glass of Marsala.” The look of amazement with which I

heard this caught the Doctor’s eye. “Don’t you like bistecca?” he

inquired. I suggested that, for one in a very high fever, with a good

deal of lung congestion, beefsteak seemed a trifle solid, and Marsala

somewhat heating. “Oh!” cried he, “but we must keep the machine going.”

And thereupon he took his genial leave.

I had some fear that my hostess might visit upon me her resentment of

the Doctor’s reproaches; but nothing of the kind. When we were alone,

she sat down by me, and asked what I should really like to eat. If I

did not care for a beefsteak of veal, could I eat a beefsteak of

mutton? It was not the first time that such a choice had been offered

me, for, in the South, bistecca commonly means a slice of meat done

on the grill or in the oven. Never have I sat down to a bistecca

which was fit for man’s consumption, and, of course, at the Concordia

it would be rather worse than anywhere else. I persuaded the good woman

to supply me with a little broth. Then I lay looking at the patch of

cloudy sky which showed above the houses opposite, and wondering

whether I should have a second fearsome night. I wondered, too, how

long it would be before I could quit Cotrone. The delay here was

particularly unfortunate, as my letters were addressed to Catanzaro,

the next stopping-place, and among them I expected papers which would

need prompt attention. The thought of trying to get my correspondence

forwarded to Cotrone was too disturbing; it would have involved an

enormous amount of trouble, and I could not have felt the least

assurance that things would arrive safely. So I worried through the

hours of daylight, and worried still more when, at nightfall, the fever

returned upon me as badly as ever.

Dr. Sculco had paid his evening visit, and the first horror of

ineffectual drowsing had passed over me, when my door was flung

violently open, and in rushed a man (plainly of the commercial

species), hat on head and bag in hand. I perceived that the diligenza

had just arrived, and that travellers were seizing upon their bedrooms.

The invader, aware of his mistake, discharged a volley of apologies,

and rushed out again. Five minutes later the door again banged open,

and there entered a tall lad with an armful of newspapers; after

regarding me curiously, he asked whether I wanted a paper. I took one

with the hope of reading it next morning. Then he began conversation. I

had the fever? Ah! everybody had fever at Cotrone. He himself would be

laid up with it in a day or two. If I liked, he would look in with a

paper each evening—till fever prevented him. When I accepted this

suggestion, he smiled encouragingly, cried “Speriamo!” and clumped

out of the room.

I had as little sleep as on the night before, but my suffering was

mitigated in a very strange way. After I had put out the candle, I

tormented myself for a long time with the thought that I should never

see La Colonna. As soon as I could rise from bed, I must flee Cotrone,

and think myself fortunate in escaping alive; but to turn my back on

the Lacinian promontory, leaving the cape unvisited, the ruin of the

temple unseen, seemed to me a miserable necessity which I should lament

as long as I lived. I felt as one involved in a moral disaster; working

in spite of reason, my brain regarded the matter from many points of

view, and found no shadow of solace. The sense that so short a distance

separated me from the place I desired to see, added exasperation to my

distress. Half-delirious, I at times seemed to be in a boat, tossing on

wild waters, the Column visible afar, but only when I strained my eyes

to discover it. In a description of the approach by land, I had read of

a great precipice which had to be skirted, and this, too, haunted me

with its terrors: I found myself toiling on a perilous road, which all

at once crumbled into fearful depths just before me. A violent

shivering fit roused me from this gloomy dreaming, and I soon after

fell into a visionary state which, whilst it lasted, gave me such

placid happiness as I have never known when in my perfect mind. Lying

still and calm, and perfectly awake, I watched a succession of

wonderful pictures. First of all I saw great vases, rich with ornament

and figures; then sepulchral marbles, carved more exquisitely than the

most beautiful I had ever known. The vision grew in extent, in

multiplicity of detail; presently I was regarding scenes of ancient