“No. That last letter from Norton was it.” An editor at Norton had said he thought my manuscript was very well written, BUT: the usual stuff about no one wanting to read about Vietnam.
We didn’t talk long. I told her a little about the storms and stuff, said we’d be home in a couple of weeks; I’d call before we left Saint Thomas.
Outside the hotel compound, Saint Thomas was pretty scruffy. We walked along a busy, litter-strewn street to a place John said served great hamburgers. We’d been talking about hamburgers for days. The street reminded me of the crummier neighborhoods in Brooklyn. I was really impressed by this. Saint Thomas was a tropical paradise, yet the citizens buried it in trash. Also, no one smiled. If you tried smiling at someone, you got a sullen stare back.
We got our hamburgers and fries and milk shakes and sat down at a table covered with catsup, pieces of dried onions, relish, and a hundred flies.
“Man, what a dump,” I said. “Why’s everything so dirty?”
“The people don’t give a shit,” John said. “They’re all on welfare and they’re pissed off at those white people living up on the hills.” He pointed to a mansion that hung out on a cantilevered deck off the side of Crown Mountain. “They’re pissed off at them because they’re rich, and if you’re a white tourist they’re pissed off at you because you’re white and, since you’re a tourist, probably rich, too.”
“Hot dammy!” Ireland said, flicking his eyebrows at the hamburger he held in two hands. “Living good, Juan!” He bit into the hamburger, squishing out catsup, smiling as he chewed.
While we ate, John said we would spend a couple of days getting supplies, and then sail to Thatch Cay, just to the east of Saint Thomas, to keel-haul the boat and install the depth finder. We needed the depth finder because we were going close to shore in Colombia, and the last thing we needed was to be pinned there, waiting for the Colombian navy.
We walked to a grocery store and bought four bags of groceries, six cases of beer, a case of Cruzin rum, and ten cartons of Winstons. We filled a cab with the stuff and drove back to the docks. John had Ireland wait with the supplies while John and I went into a marine supply store and bought a new fitting for the fuel line, plus spares
We loaded up the dingy and rowed back to the Namaste.
That afternoon I replaced the fuel-line fitting and then just loafed around the boat watching life in the harbor. Some people sunned themselves on the decks of their boats; others polished brass, painted bright work. Everybody was laid back. I wasn’t laid back. I was plagued with doubt, tense with worry. I wondered if I was really able to go through with the scam.
At dusk we rowed back to the docks and went to the Islander.
The Islander was the kind of place they keep dirty on purpose. The ceiling was fishnets tacked to beams with dusty seashells and starfish drooping down in the nets at odd places. A stuffed sailfish nailed to a driftwood plank had cobwebs in his open mouth. We sat at a table on an upstairs balcony, with a good view of the harbor.
It was sunset, and the island was beginning to look good. Lights flickered along the harbor’s edge, ringing the dark water like a glittering necklace on velvet. Two hundred yachts basked in a calm harbor. We decided that the Namaste was one of the best-looking boats in the basin.
I sipped a beer, my second, and began to think of Saint Thomas as a pretty nice place to be. After a while, you barely noticed the trash and stopped trying to be friendly with the natives. And the weather was terrific. Here it was, the middle of December, yet the breeze was soft and warm, balmy. Perfect weather.
I had a bowl of conch chowder and another beer.
Ireland and I stayed out on the boat the next day, cleaning and making repairs, while John rowed in to phone the scam master and find a place to fix the loran. He’d taken the radio with him.
John came back after lunch. No luck getting the radio fixed. It’d have to be sent to the states for repair—weeks. We could buy a new one on the island, but loran sets cost fifteen hundred dollars, and John told us we were down to less than a thousand. The scam master, the money man, was coming in two days, but John doubted he’d spring for a new radio because John was way over budget already. Who cares? he said. We were doing fine with the sextant and the wristwatch. We were here, weren’t we? True enough. We’d crossed thirteen hundred miles of open sea, storms, drifting becalmed, motoring, and we’d hit Saint Thomas dead on without the loran.
John decided we should find a place to haul the Namaste.
When we sailed east around Red Hook and north, up the Leeward Pass, I saw scores of beautiful houses set on the hillsides of the island. This seemed to be what Saint Thomas was for: a place to perch one’s house and take in the view. And hell, I imagined a mansion owner saying, labor is cheap, if somewhat sullen. Let them make their own fortunes.
It took less than two hours to get to a suitable cove at Thatch Cay. It was high tide, but according to John’s tide tables, that was only a foot or so in this area. We dropped sail in a lagoon that looked like it was out of a movie—blue water, white beaches, palms and sea-grape trees crowded right up to the water. We motored slowly, crawling toward the beach. We dropped an anchor off the starboard side when we were within two hundred yards of shore. This would be the anchor we would be pulling against later. We crept toward shore, paying out the anchor line, until we felt the keel bump the sandy bottom. John stopped the engine. We put the anchor line around a winch and pulled ourselves back out a few feet to where we figured the Namaste’s keel was hovering just a couple of feet off the bottom. When the tide went out, she’d be almost aground. John didn’t want to actually ground her; he was afraid she’d get stuck. We dropped another anchor to keep us where we were.
By the time we got this far, it was getting late. John said that it would take half a day to roll the Namaste over and drill the hole for the depth finder. Might as well look around. We rowed the dingy ashore to explore the island.
We splashed through warm, clear water, felt hot sand on our feet. We sat down on the beach and just looked. The sun was low, golden. Coconut palms arched over the sand and crystal-clear waves lapped the white beach. Fiddler crabs scurried through the driftwood and seaweed looking for food, turning cocky and aggressive when they bumped into other fiddlers. I took some pictures. I framed a shot with palms drooping over the water, Ireland and John lying on the dazzling beach, the Namaste gleaming white against a cobalt sky. I walked to them and sat down. “Wow!” Ireland said. “This is right out of a cigarette ad. It’s perfect. Why don’t people live here?”
John agreed. “This is beautiful, no two ways about it. Fucking lovely.”
I turned around and stared into the tropical jungle behind us. A hundred feet into the vines and undergrowth, it got very dark. A little spooky. Didn’t know what was in the shadows.
When the sun dropped behind the ridge of Saint Thomas Island, we found out why people didn’t live here. We were assaulted by swarms of sand flies thick enough to cast shadows. Some people call them no-see-ums, because they’re so tiny. They are very tiny bugs, true, but each one packs one helluva bite and they attack by the thousands. These things are goddamn flying piranhas. We jumped into the dingy and splashed back out to the boat. That stopped them for a while, but as soon as it got darker, they swarmed aboard, though not as thick as on shore. We sat around with towels wrapped around our heads, being miserable, while the sand flies fed. Ireland offered the theory that the sand flies used this beautiful tropical island as bait for humans.