The restaurant got its name from the owner’s farm, Four Hills. The farm was north of the city, in the Hudson Valley. One day in October, I learned why it was called Four Hills. I went up with a line cook at the restaurant. It was a Wednesday, and we were both off during the day, so we drove to the farm to pick up produce. We stopped at a café that he liked and had biscuits and eggs and bacon and coffee. Grant was a quiet man. I had only noticed him when he had, on a busy night, brought my food out to tables. He was large and uncomfortable outside the kitchen, and the plates of food looked small in his hands, too small and inconsequential to be something he worked at every night.
After we ate, we drove toward the hills. The farm was nestled at the base of them, and the trees were lit in red and orange. I found I didn’t want to look at them too closely.
At the farm, Grant worked like he did in the kitchen, with quick focus. Afterward, I helped carry tubs of produce and eggs to the car. Then we drove to a wine bar he knew outside of town, near the river. When he had suggested it, I had looked at my boots covered in mud, and at my jeans and jean jacket. It’s fine, he had said, we’re in the country.
Riding in the car, I was dazed by the trees. I told him a story of how one day, months earlier, I had taken the train to Fort Tryon Park and spent the time in the park talking about the trees. The friend I had gone with had stayed quiet. But isn’t it amazing? I had said, all these trees? She had just been out of the city, she said, the week before, so maybe she was used to trees. But I hadn’t been out of the city, and they seemed spectacular to me, how small and lovely you felt walking under them.
At the wine bar, we ordered at the counter and took our glasses to a deck out back. It was high up and overlooked the river. I talked about the trip I had gone on, talking about the soup kitchens and the cities, and then about being back, about the truck horns on the BQE. He was interested in food sustainability and talked for some time before stopping. I sound ridiculous, he said. I forget there are people starving in this world. He went inside and came back with a plate of toasted bread with chutney.
After, we drove back to the city. The trees had been too much, anyway. One wants trees, but not that many after so long without. We parked and carried the produce in. The owner was at a back table on his computer, drinking a glass of wine. A lot of greens, Grant told him. I went into the bathroom to change for work while Grant went to the kitchen.
Someone famous came in that night. I forget who. The food was really beautiful, everything that we gave to this famous person. It was a good night. Enough tables for everyone to move efficiently, but not so many that the food had to be prepared too quickly. There was a hush, too, from the trip, and I moved as if still under that canopy.
The horns were incredible back then. They were the deep, sonorous creatures of the city, beckoning as if from a dream. A BQE on-ramp was close by, and drivers used my street as the access, backing up the length of it. The cars — with the twerpy horns and the rap on the radio — were annoying but forgettable, slapped away like so many pesky flies in the fall when all the flies are trying to get indoors, trying to keep alive. The trucks were different. They were the conversation the city was having with me back then, the rumbling, infernal progress of need across a landscape, of making movement heard and felt, making progress heard and felt. It created a tremor. Reminded me of how small I was. I slept and woke to those horns. Sometimes one low, steady, constant bellow would last improbably long — ten, fifteen seconds of need. The horns echoing to each other, calling to each other. I slept and woke to that.
The first night Grant stayed over, we lay in bed listening to the trucks. Like they are all lost and finding their mates, I said. It was a horrible sound, but better if you thought of it that way. The light from streetlights came in and we moved our hands through it. All the trucks trying to find each other in the night. He told me that the restaurant wasn’t doing well, that it was losing the owner money and they were trying to stay afloat. Which you know, he said. Of course. Because you aren’t making money either. When you’re poor, I said, sometimes it becomes easier to make even less money. We weren’t trying to fall asleep. We’d had sex while the light was going down and hadn’t yet turned on the lights. We were getting hungry but still hadn’t moved, putting off the discomfort the nudity was going to bring us. I had some money, some years ago, after the divorce, I said, some money from my ex-husband, but that’s gone now.
He said he didn’t want to work in kitchens anymore. He wanted to spend the winter in the farm cottage. He had planned to go to Spain, had started in kitchens to save money, but had stayed instead. It hadn’t been the plan, but he was still young, and now wanted to spend a year on the farm. He said that kitchen only had a dorm fridge and a hot plate. That’s what I want, he said. That’s all I want. He was a strong man. You could imagine it for him. And you? he said. What foolish things do you hope for?
Something very similar, I said, not wanting to tell him otherwise, that hopes softened in time, and now mostly I thought about things I’d miss when they were gone — the smell of him, the way he moved, the street that I lived on.
In the kitchen he laid out what I had in the fridge — which wasn’t much — and made a dinner of omelets and fried potatoes. After, we went out for the cheap manhattans they made at the corner bar, which weren’t good, but were strong and large, and then we went back to my apartment and fell asleep, as the trucks had at last quieted, and I had drawn the curtain to darken the room.
TRAVELERS
The church was still there, not changed at all, still with the Pilgrim Travel Hostel on the upper floor and the playground behind. Our apartments — the Church Apartments — were gone, having been razed for parking. Back then, when we lived there, we could always tell the travelers. For some reason they always struggled with the lock. We would stand by our window and watch them try to get into the church. You could see, not alarm, but the warding off of alarm. They would step back and look around as if expecting someone. Richard used to bike to his job at the college. We bought the bike from one of the travelers. We kept it against the living room wall. We didn’t have any money and were afraid of someone stealing it. I would be working in the living room and he would open the door and roll the bike in then sit on the sofa with his helmet still on. We didn’t have very much furniture — just the couch, a coffee table. We wanted to be ready to move, I think. The apartment building was attached to the church and I found a door that went inside it. I spent time, at night, when I couldn’t sleep, walking the church hallways. Richard always fell asleep right away.
The church ran a day care. During nap time, the children slept on rolled-out mats, without any pillows or blankets. They slept in rows just like that, and made crafts from colored pom-poms — making rainbows that hung from string. I liked the day care: the colored pom-poms, the snacks in Dixie cups, the day they decorated their bikes in the parking lot.
On Sundays I went to church and Richard stayed in bed, neither of us believers, but I was moved by the neighborliness of the event. The deacon had long flowing hair and flowing robes. I was afraid of her equanimity and cheerfulness, but the pastor — a thin, thinning-haired woman with hurt eyes — it was natural to like her for the stinginess of her gifts. It was the deacon who always read stories during the children’s service, which was the second one of the day, the one that I went to. The pastor sat behind the altar watching as if she had been ordered to stay away.