0 Partial metering: This mode reads the light information that exists in the center area of your frame. So, you must make sure your subject is in the center when you take your exposure reading. After that you can adjust your composition to position your subject somewhere else in the frame. Partial metering is most effective when your background is much brighter than your subject. This situation happens in backlit situations — when your subject is in front of the setting sun, for example.
0 Spot metering: This mode meters a particular element or area, so if you want to set your exposure based on one specific element in your scene, it's the best mode to use. Black-and-white film photographers mostly used spot metering to determine the various intensities of light in a scene. It isn't as commonly used in digital photography, however.
0 Center-weighted average metering: This mode uses the center of your frame to get a meter reading, and then it creates an average reading for the rest of the scene. Center-weighted average metering is sort of a mix
between evaluative and partial metering. Warning: This method isn't the most accurate, so I recommend that you not focus too much attention on it.
Using your camera's meter is a good way to get a general start to exposing an image, but I suggest that you look at your histogram for any particular scene after taking an image. If the histogram is bunched toward the left, increase your exposure (regardless of what your meter reading says), and if it's bunched toward the right, decrease your exposure. (Check out the earlier section "Using a histogram to check exposure" for more on histograms.)
Relying on your camera's automatic modes
Digital SLRs provide you with different types of automatic modes to work with based on your priorities. The following three modes are the ones you need to know about:
Full automatic: With this mode, you don't have to think about any of your settings. You don't have control over your aperture, shutter speed, or ISO settings, so you're free to concentrate fully on your compositions and communications with your subjects. Results may vary when using this mode.
Tv shutter priority: This mode gives you control over your shutter speed but handles aperture settings for you. If you want a fast shutter speed to freeze motion or a slow shutter speed to capture motion blur in a waterfall or a scene with cars driving down the street, this mode allows your camera's meter to determine your aperture settings. This mode comes in handy when shooting fast-paced sporting events. (Read more about photographing moving subjects in Chapter 16.)
Av aperture priority: This mode enables you to select your aperture, but it chooses the appropriate shutter speed for you. You'll find Av aperture priority mode handy when you desire a specific depth of field but aren't concerned with the speed of your shutter. You'll most likely use this mode on still subjects and when you have a well-lit scene or when your camera is on a tripod.
Check your owner's manual to find out more about the modes your camera includes and how to set them.
I recommend that you get into the habit of shooting manually. It's a lot like driving: A person who can drive a manual transmission can always drive an automatic in a jam, but a person who only drives automatic usually can't drive a stick if they ever have to. In other words, you want to be comfortable with your camera and its settings at all times just in case.
I sometimes switch my camera to automatic shooting modes based on convenience or necessity. One of those situations is when I'm shooting an event or wedding in conditions where the light intensity keeps changing. Rather than manually switching my settings back and forth, I let the camera do the work for me. I also use an automatic mode if I'm shooting in extremely low light and relying on an on-camera flash to light my scenes. Shooting in auto allows the camera and flash to work together in creating the most appropriate exposures based on the situation at hand.
Putting Together an Effective Toolkit
In photography, having the right tools is often as important as both having a good eye and being in the right place at the right time. However, having too many tools can be overwhelming and can cloud your judgment. So start off by compiling a toolkit that covers the basics and gets you headed in the right direction. Through time you'll naturally acquire all the extras — and the expertise to use them.
Before heading out to photograph, always think about whether you can actually record light with the gear you've packed. Ask yourself whether you have the following essentials in your basic toolkit:
• A camera: Don't laugh — I'm sure some photographers have forgotten their cameras in the past.
" Lenses: Make sure you have the right lenses for the specific photos you want to capture.
• Compact memory cards: You need these cards to record the images. I have forgotten to take these to a shoot, and it was embarrassing. Without them, you can only pretend to take pictures.
• An artificial light source: You can choose from a battery-operated external flash, a strobe kit, and so on. Whether you need a light source depends on what you're shooting and what the lighting is going to be like. (For more about lighting, flip to Chapter 10.) For instance, if you're shooting indoors at nighttime, you'll probably want to bring a flash.
• A tripod: You never know when you'll end up in a low-light situation, or when you'll want to take multiple shots with your camera in one position. Bring your tripod to be prepared.
This list covers most situations and enables you to take photos (which is, after all, the whole point). But in order to pack the gear, you have to acquire it first. The following sections help guide you in the right direction.
When purchasing camera gear on the Internet, avoid online stores that don't appear trustworthy. They may offer a better deal, but you don't want to risk getting ripped off. In general, I shop at the B&H Web site (www. bhphoto video. com). The company carries pretty much everything and is trusted by most photographers.
Finding a camera that fits your photography style and budget
When looking for a camera, consider what type of photographer you are and what you need in a camera. You have many cameras to choose from, and each is slightly or drastically different depending on how much you want to spend. Here are the most common camera levels to choose from:
The basic consumer leveclass="underline" This level offers the most variety and targets everyone, including children, artists, trendsetters, travelers, family portrait enthusiasts, memory makers, and Internet social networkers. Consumer-level cameras try to sell you on ideas like simplicity, looks, and convenience. The quality ranges from bad to decent, and the prices range from $200 to $1,200.
These cameras are great for snapshot photography and for the photographer who enjoys composing images but doesn't necessarily want to develop a deeper understanding of the process.
The semipro and hobby leveclass="underline" This level offers high-quality cameras that fit into a smaller range than consumer-level products and still include a variety of features and a high level of quality. Semiproand hobby-level cameras usually range from $1,200 to $3,500. You can create beautiful, high-quality images with these cameras, and you can choose from plenty of options that cover all types of photography.