"What sort of mental impression do you carry away?" said the Professor.
"A tea–girl in fawn–coloured crêpe under a cherry tree all blossom. Behind her, green pines, two babies, and a hog–backed bridge spanning a bottle–green river running over blue boulders. In the foreground a little policeman in badly fitting Europe clothes drinking tea from blue and white china on a black lacquered stand. Fleecy white clouds above and a cold wind up the street," I said, summarising hastily.
"Mine is a little different. A Japanese boy in a flat–headed German cap and baggy Eton jacket; a King taken out of a toy–shop, a railway taken out of a toy–shop, hundreds of little Noah's Ark trees and fields made of green–painted wood. The whole neatly packed in a camphor–wood box with an explanatory book called the Constitution—price twenty cents."
"You looked on the darker side of things. But what's the good of writing impressions? Every man has to get his own at first hand. Suppose I give an itinerary of what we saw?"
"You couldn't do it," said the Professor, blandly. "Besides, by the time the next Anglo–Indian comes this way there will be a hundred more miles of railway and all the local arrangements will have changed. Write that a man should come to Japan without any plans. The guide–books will tell him a little, and the men he meets will tell him ten times more. Let him get first a good guide at Kobé, and the rest will come easily enough. An itinerary is only a fresh manifestation of that unbridled egoism which—"
"I shall write that a man can do himself well from Calcutta to Yokohama, stopping at Rangoon, Moulmein, Penang, Singapur, Hong–Kong, Canton, and taking a month in Japan, for about sixty pounds—rather less than more. But if he begins to buy curios, that man is lost. Five hundred rupees cover his month in Japan and allow him every luxury. Above all, he should bring with him thousands of cheroots—enough to serve him till he reaches 'Frisco. Singapur is the last place on the line where you can buy Burmas. Beyond that point wicked men sell Manila cigars with fancy names for ten, and Havanas for thirty–five, cents. No one inspects your boxes till you reach 'Frisco. Bring, therefore, at least one thousand cheroots."
"Do you know, it seems to me you have a very queer sense of proportion?"
And that was the last word the Professor spoke on Japanese soil.
No. XXII
Shows How I Came to America Before My Time and Was Much Shaken in Body and Soul - "Then Spoke Der Captain Stossenheim Who Had Theories of God, 'Oh, Breitmann, This is Judgment on Der Ways Dot You Have Trod. You Only Lifs to Enjoy Yourself While You Yourself Agree Dot Self-development Requires Der Religious Idee.'"--C. G. Leland.
This is America. They call her the City of Peking, and she belongs to the Pacific Mail Company, but for all practical purposes she is the United States. We are divided between missionaries and generals—generals who were at Vicksburg and Shiloh, and German by birth, but more American than the Americans, who in confidence tell you that they are not generals at all, but only brevet majors of militia corps. The missionaries are perhaps the queerest portion of the cargo. Did you ever hear an English minister lecture for half an hour on the freight–traffic receipts and general working of, let us say, the Midland? The Professor has been sitting at the feet of a keen–eyed, close–bearded, swarthy man who expounded unto him kindred mysteries with a fluency and precision that a city leader–writer might have envied. "Who's your financial friend with the figures at his fingers' ends?" I asked. "Missionary—Presbyterian Mission to the Japs," said the Professor. I laid my hand upon my mouth and was dumb.
As a counterpoise to the missionaries, we carry men from Manila—lean Scotchmen who gamble once a month in the Manila State lottery and occasionally turn up trumps. One, at least, drew a ten–thousand–dollar prize last December and is away to make merry in the New World. Everybody on the staff of an American steamer this side the Continent seems to gamble steadily in that lottery, and the talk of the smoking–room runs almost entirely on prizes won by accident or lost through a moment's delay. The tickets are sold more or less openly at Yokahama and Hong–Kong, and the drawings—losers and winners both agree here—are above reproach.
We have resigned ourselves to the infinite monotony of a twenty days' voyage. The Pacific Mail advertises falsely. Only under the most favorable circumstances of wind and steam can their under–engined boats cover the distance in fifteen days. Our City of Peking, for instance, had been jogging along at a gentle ten knots an hour, a pace out of all proportion to her bulk. "When we get a wind," says the Captain, "we shall do better." She is a four–master and can carry any amount of canvas. It is not safe to run steamers across this void under the poles of Atlantic liners. The monotony of the sea is paralysing. We have passed the wreck of a little sealing–schooner lying bottom up and covered with gulls. She weltered by in the chill dawn, unlovely as the corpse of a man, and the wild birds piped thinly at us as they steered her across the surges. The pulse of the Pacific is no little thing even in the quieter moods of the sea. It set our bows swinging and nosing and ducking ere we were a day clear of Yokohama, and yet there was never swell nor crested wave in sight. "We ride very high," said the Captain, "and she's a dry boat. She has a knack of crawling over things somehow; but we shan't need to put her to the test this journey."
The Captain was mistaken. For four days we have endured the sullen displeasure of the North Pacific, winding up with a night of discomfort. It began with a grey sea, flying clouds, and a head–wind that smote fifty knots off the day's run. Then rose from the southeast a beam sea warranted by no wind that was abroad upon the waters in our neighbourhood, and we wallowed in the trough of it for sixteen mortal hours. In the stillness of the harbour, when the newspaper man is lunching in her saloon and the steam–launch is crawling round her sides, a ship of pride is a "stately liner." Out in the open, one rugged shoulder of a sea between you and the horizon, she becomes "the old hooker," a "lively boat," and other things of small import, for this is necessary to propitiate the Ocean. "There's a storm to the southeast of us," explained the Captain. "That's what's kicking up this sea."
The City of Peking did not belie her reputation. She crawled over the seas in liveliest wise, never shipping a bucket till—she was forced to. Then she took it green over the bows to the vast edification of, at least, one passenger who had never seen the scuppers full before.
Later in the day the fun began. "Oh, she's a daisy at rolling," murmured the chief steward, flung starfish–wise on a table among his glassware. "She's rolling some," said a black apparition new risen from the stoke–hold. "Is she going to roll any more?" demanded the ladies grouped in what ought to have been the ladies' saloon, but, according to American custom, was labelled "Social Hall."
Passed in the twilight the chief officer—a dripping, bearded face. "Shall I mark out the bull–board?" said he, and lurched aft, followed by the tongue of a wave. "She'll roll her guards under to–night," said a man from Louisiana, where their river–steamers do not understand the meaning of bulwarks. We dined to a dashing accompaniment of crockery, the bounds of emancipated beer–bottles livelier than their own corks, and the clamour of the ship's gong broken loose and calling to meals on its own account.