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After a while we came over a rise and the countryside opened out before us, sloping, green and wooded, with the flat, calm spread of the sea around it. The grey, wadded sky stayed behind us, stolid, diminishing, and ahead a great arc of blue stood over everything. A town was clustered around the small bay, and the sun cast shadows on its buildings so that it seemed highly contoured and quaint, like a toy town, with its little bright boats in the harbour and its houses splashed up the hill behind it.

‘This is Doniford,’ said Adam. He sat up straight and put his face close to the windscreen.

‘Should I have heard of that too?’

‘It’s a hilarious place, actually.’

I was to hear this repeated often by the Hanburys, that Doniford was ‘hilarious’. I still don’t really know what they meant by it, which is a pity, because I’m sure they only said it for the benefit of visitors such as myself.

‘Does that mean it doesn’t have a pub?’

‘Of course it has a pub.’

We went to a pub overlooking the little harbour, which Adam reached by driving the car right up on to the wooden esplanade and jettisoning it directly outside the entrance, a strategy which proved useful an hour later when we were forced to search the disgusting interior for money to pay for our drinks. Afterwards we climbed back in through the windows, in view of a small crowd of people that had gathered around the car on the esplanade. There was no communication between Adam and these people. The only thing that suggested his familiarity here was the confidence with which he ignored them. He careered off the esplanade and roared on through the town with his window rolled down and his open shirt flapping madly at his neck in the sun. A cavalier spirit seemed to have seized his body. He drove faster, until the houses looked askew, like great trees falling in our path, and the road undulated crazily in front of us.

‘I’ve got to get up speed for the hill,’ he shouted above the noise of the engine.

We rolled up and out of Doniford and shot into a narrow lane that steeply ascended the flank of green that lay massively behind the town. A feeling of weightlessness possessed the car, as though we had taken flight. I glanced at Adam and felt the first intrusion of a process with which I am by now familiar. It is the process by which whole-hearted acceptance becomes slowly interred in recrimination. With his hands gripping the wheel and the summer sun gilding him from the west, Adam Hanbury had the look of a demon. What gave him that look was the fact that he was going home: he was connected to the earth; suddenly he was subjective, malevolent, interested. I felt him peeling away from me, as though with the adhesive of prior experience. I saw that I would have to fend for myself. The car slowed almost to a halt as we approached the rise. It crawled over and then span away victoriously down a little slope before biting on a second incline. The green hill opened out in the sunshine. The muddle of the countryside along the coast had given way to a landscape of great, unfamiliar splendour. It was as though we had risen through the clouds up into the roots of another world. It looked bold and sombre even in summer. The grass was like felt and the shadows were dark blue and inky. On that golden day it looked like a painting, executed as though from memory: its sheep and horses, its fields and fences, looked recollected, dreamt-of, in their little auras of sunlight. Right in the lap of the hill, shimmering as though they were surrounded by water, were two smaller rises of a strange, distinctly pyramidal shape.

The road passed through a pair of broken stone pillars and became a track, studded with potholes and protruding bits of rock and brick. On one side were a pair of new, grey, industrial-looking structures. On the other the lush green flank of the hill rose further still. Distant clouds of sheep passed across it, parting and re-forming around the thick trunks of trees.

I said: ‘What do you grow?’

‘You can’t grow anything up here,’ scoffed Adam. ‘It’s too high. The time and money people waste trying to find a crop you can sustain on a hill farm,’ he continued, as though I myself were responsible for this scandal. ‘The only things that have any business on a hill farm are sheep. That’s all there’s ever been at Egypt and all there ever will be.’

We jolted along for about a quarter of a mile until we came to a pond that ruminated in a circle of trees and beyond that a range of old buildings — round, rectangular, barn-like, some decrepit — that culminated at the far end in a large house. The house was white and flat-fronted and exposed, and faced with a startled expression down the hill towards the sea. The outbuildings were made of a softer, golden-coloured stone and stemmed from the side of the house as though in mitigation, by a series of uneven steps and archways, until they subsided into a pretty conical ruin with a pointed, rotten roof. Chickens were roosting in the glassless windows. At the front of the house I saw a green table of lawn, pierced by croquet hoops. A warm wind blew in through the open window. When it passed through the trees outside it made a rushing sound like the sound of the sea.

Adam said:

‘We’re here.’

He said it sighingly, as though succumbing to the irresistible force of the status quo. The cooling engine made ticking noises. In the black window frames where the fat, rust-coloured chickens sat I suddenly saw a face. It was the white face of a boy.

‘Who’s that?’ I said.

‘Who?’ said Adam.

‘Up there with the chickens. I saw him looking at us.’

The face had gone; the dark void of the ruined interior replaced it.

‘It was probably Brendon,’ said Adam. ‘He’s always up there.’

‘Who’s Brendon?’

‘My brother. Come on, let’s go.’

We got our bags and went around the side of the house, through the succession of archways into a small courtyard, where a little pot-bellied dog hurtled around yapping over the cobblestones, and through a low door into the house itself. Another dog barked from somewhere inside. We entered a cool, gloomy tiled hall full of dark furniture. I could hear voices.

‘— only six of white wine.’

‘Six? There can’t only be six — Paul, why didn’t you get more wine?’

‘I don’t want them pissed. I don’t want pissed teenagers on my property,’ said a man’s voice.

‘— milk and country dancing.’

‘The problem is that they vomit.’

‘— thought they should have non-alcoholic drinks.’

‘White wine is a non-alcoholic drink,’ said the man’s voice. It was a particularly carrying voice.

‘I want to make kir.’

‘Darling, she says she wants to make kir.’

Kir is a woman’s drink.’

‘I told you. I told you that was what I wanted.’

‘What about Jasper? Hasn’t he got any? Darling, go and ask Jasper.’

‘I don’t want to ask Jasper!’

I followed Adam into a large, low-ceilinged room whose far wall was entirely occupied by a black hearth tall enough for an adult to stand in and twice as wide. In the centre of the room was a table like a big door plinthed on thick wooden legs. Its weathered surface was instantly mesmerising. It was scarred and polished like skin, and it seemed to undulate a little, as though it were a living medium, a living presence in the room. The walls were full of things, on shelves and racks and hooks, things stacked or hanging or made to stand in lines, all different and densely patterned with light and orderly, convened, so that the place had the atmosphere of an eccentric sort of museum. Two women and a man sat at the table. Another man was standing by the black maw of the fireplace with a grey, rough-haired dog prostrate at his feet. A girl was sitting by the open window, on top of a wooden sideboard. The warm, twittering day stood immured behind her, beyond the glass. In the instant before they registered our arrival I formed an impression of the drama, almost the theatricality, of their grouping. I was accustomed to the bright, depthless circle of people my own age, who spilled out into the world like some fast-flowing liquid, spreading and spreading until we found something to block our path. The people in the kitchen were not like that: in their somatic presence I discerned wells of motivation, as though bored into the ground beneath them. It seemed that they might never move but might remain there, like musicians holding their bows, situated in a meaningful entanglement. The girl looked up.