But in winter the temperature would drop to well below zero for months on end, as snow followed snow and the ice on Spirit Lake froze to five feet deep. Animals and birds would move to warmer grounds, bears would hibernate, and many creatures would die. Storms would come one after another, and the snow would fall six, or eight, sometimes ten feet deep. After every fall, Truman had to climb on to the roof of his lodge to shovel it off, or the weight of snow would have made the roof cave in. The winter months were a constant battle to survive, and Truman turned his talents to trapping and poaching. He had bought in sacks of beans and rice and flour, bacon and salted beef; he had dried fruits and herbs, and stacked wood for the fire.
People who live close to nature have a different take on life from urban dwellers, who think they can control everything. These people recognise the rhythm of life and death in the changing shifts of the natural world. Truman’s years of reflection beside his lake, beneath the shadow of the mountain, had surely formulated his philosophy of life.
In March 1980, Truman was eighty-three years old, fit and strong, but nonetheless old and getting older. Eddie had been dead for five years and he was lonely. He had kept the place going because, if he hadn’t, he would not have survived the winter. He had no enthusiasm for the idea of summer visitors, but that was the business upon which he depended for an income.
On Friday, 20th March, at 3.45 p.m., the ground under his feet shook slightly. He was glad, and thought it was a sign that the spring weather had loosened an avalanche down the side of Mount St Helens.
But scientists at the University of Washington, twenty miles to the north, were not so blase. The seismographs showed an earth tremor measuring 4.1 on the Richter scale, and the location was close to Mount St Helens, which gave cause for real concern. Three days later the earth moved again, measuring 4.4 on the Richter scale, and the quakes were even closer to the mountain. Visitors were urged to stay away, and by the end of March the authorities were considering possible plans for an evacuation. The forest service closed all roads to the area above the timberline. Truman’s lodge was eight miles above the timberline.
On the last day of March, a state of emergency was declared. Rob Smith, an old friend who lived further down the slopes, was having a drink and a quiet conversation with Truman when ‘all of a sudden the whole building seemed like a little cardboard box, rocking backwards and forwards,’ he remembered. They went out on to the porch and saw Mount St Helens spit a plume of ash thousands of feet into the air. Quite soon afterwards, the Deputy Sheriff’s car came screaming up the approach road, his voice booming from the loudspeaker: ‘The mountain’s erupting. Everyone out.’ Rob quickly made ready to leave, but Truman was not prepared to go. Rob went out and returned with the Sheriff. The two men tried every tactic from threat to guile – ‘We’re standing on a dynamite keg with the fuse lit. If it goes up, we will die’ – but they couldn’t persuade the old man to go with them. They left, and Truman was alone.
Mount St Helens was much changed the following day. A crater had appeared on the summit, two hundred and fifty feet in diameter, surrounded by a dirty black ring of ash, disfiguring the purity of the snow. Large fissures, more than a mile long, were visible, and Truman must have been not just awestruck, but tremblingly afraid. Yet it must have been then that he formulated his unshakeable resolve: ‘If that mountain goes, I go with it.’ He was eighty-three years old, his beloved wife was dead, he was lonely and he frequently wondered what he had to live for now that she was gone. He had lived beside that mountain since he was a young, virile man of twenty-nine, and it was as much a part of him as his own hands and feet. His soul was in that mountain, and there was no life for him elsewhere. He would stay.
This resolve, spoken by a man in his right mind, started a bureaucratic and legal battle that was to rage for the next eight weeks. It also brought in the press, which exacerbated the sheriff’s headaches, and was the cause of many sleepless nights.
The West Coast of America is on a known geological fault line, and tremors and small eruptions are quite common. But a dormant volcano, threatening to erupt, was big news, and all the papers wanted a story. When word got round that an old man was living halfway up the mountain and refusing to leave, editors were ecstatic and ordered their reporters to get the ‘human story’.
A ‘no entry’ zone had been marked out by the authorities. Did the reporters take any notice? Of course not! They swarmed up the roads in droves, panting for a good story. When they met roadblocks, they proceeded on foot, cameramen and all, along the forest paths. If the sheriff’s forest rangers ordered them off, they stuck up two fingers and ignored them. Helicopters came in, and so many flew over the roadblocks that, at times, the highway in front of St Helen’s Lodge resembled an air force landing pad.
Truman turned out to be a journalist’s dream. He was old and gnarled, he was fast-talking, heavy drinking, and his language was too ripe to put into print. His views were extreme and his contempt for authority was equal to, or indeed exceeded, that of the average reporter. He also proved to be photogenic. At first he was wary of the press boys, and refused to have anything to do with them. But then he began to see the advantages of their attention. They were a lively bunch, mostly young, full of enthusiasm and daring. Their company was stimulating and entertaining, and Truman was lonely. They all had an amusing tale to tell about how they had got in, how they had fooled the sheriff’s men. The situation was heady for an old man who had spent much of the winter alone, and Truman reckoned he could afford to lavish his entire whisky supply on these men. They all drank a toast to the damnation of that goddam Sheriff and his goddam rules and regulations.
But Truman was not doing all this just to be kind or hospitable. He was a wily manipulator with a well-honed talent for getting what he wanted. For one thing, the reporters helped keep his mind off the situation – one big quake prompted him to say, ‘You know, I’m scared as hell about earthquakes. I just wish it would all stop’ – but, more importantly, he realised the press coverage would be of help to him.
Truman quickly became famous in the Western States, and when the New York Times ran a two-page article on him, complete with quotations and pictures, he became a national celebrity.
For the law-enforcement officials charged with keeping people out of the Red Zone, it was a nightmare. The pressure to interview Truman grew as the quakes and avalanches continued, and lightning bolts, some two miles long, flashed above the mountain. A second crater opened up on the summit and blue flames could be seen leaping into the air. But still the press boys continued to dodge the roadblocks.
Truman made his intentions absolutely clear – he was going to stay at the lodge, no matter what. ‘You wouldn’t pull me out with a mule team,’ he said. ‘That mountain’s part of Truman, and Truman’s part of that mountain,’ it was reported in one paper. To another, he said ‘I tell you; I’m no brave soul. Those goddam quakes scare the living Hell out of me. But hell, I’ve lived here fifty-four years. I might as well stay; I’m not leaving my home now. You know, the people down town, they don’t understand. They think I’m putting on a false front. Well, Jesus Christ, I’m going on eighty-four years old. When you’ve lived fifty-four years in one place and it’s the only home you’ve got, well, you don’t just walk off and leave it. Well, Christ no. People just don’t understand.’