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Returning however to the front of the villa, in the midst of the rustic setting of the vineyard, a long avenue (parallel to that of the main carriage-drive, but more internal) led to the rotunda of the fountain with the nymphaeum and continued until it came at last to a well-tended little meadow whereon had been laid, for light meals in the open air, tables and benches copiously ornate with rich carvings and marquetry, shaded by sumptuous canopies of striped linen.

The unsuspecting visitor would halt, lost in admiration, until he became aware that this display was but the frame and invitation to the most spectacular sight of the whole vineyard; his eyes would squint in sudden amazement at that plunging vista over Roman bastions and battlements, extending on the right towards the horizon, as they emerged from the depths of their invisible, somnolent, millenary foundations. Eyelids would flutter as they beheld that dramatic and unexpected prospect and the heartbeat would quicken. Among those delights, o'erflowing with perfumes and enchantment, every thing seemed born for pleasure, all was poesy.

The Villa Spada rose thus to the occasion, no longer that modest but delightful summer residence almost eclipsed by the wealth and magnificence of the sumptuous Palazzo Spada in Piazza Capo di Ferro, but the great theatre of the forthcoming celebrations.

Now the villa could without blushing contend with the most famed of the summer pavilions built two centuries previously, when Giuliano da Sangallo and Baldassare Peruzzi graced Rome with their services, the former with his commission for the Villa Chigi, the latter with the villa which he designed for Cardinal Alidosi at Magliana, while Giulio Romano created the villa of the Datary Turini on the Janiculum, and Bramante and Raphael built the Vatican Belvedere and the Villa Madama respectively, both to ingenious designs.

In reality, it had since time immemorial been the custom of great lords to have elegant residences built in the nearby countryside in which to forget the daily round of cares and sorrows, even if they stayed there only a few times a year. Without going as far back as the rich mansions which the Romans had erected (and which were celebrated by so many excellent poets, from Horace to Catullus), I was well aware from my reading and from conversations with a few erudite booksellers (but even more with old peasants, who know the vineyards and gardens better than anyone) that, in the past two hundred years in particular, the great princes of Rome had made a fashion of building themselves pleasure pavilions on the outskirts of the city. The desolate no-man's-land and damp little fields within the Aurelian Wall and in its immediate vicinity had gradually given way to the vineyard and its casino, in other words to gardens and to villas.

While the first villas had battlements and turrets (still visible at the entrance of the otherwise undefended Capponi vineyard), an obvious legacy of the turbid Middle Ages when a gentleman's abode was also his fortress, within a few decades styles grew lighter and more serene and soon every nobleman boasted a residence with vineyards, vegetable gardens, fruit trees, woods or pine groves, thus creating the gentle illusion of possessing and exercising lordship over all that the eye could see without so much as moving from one's seat.

The flowering of scenic wonders within the villa's verdant bounds went well with the gay atmosphere reigning in the Holy City. The year of Our Lord 1700 was a Jubilee Year. Multitudes of pilgrims were converging from all the world over in hope of obtaining remission of their sins and benefit of the indulgence. No sooner did they arrive from the Via Romea at the ridge from which they could make out the cupola of Saint Peter's than the faithful (known therefore as "Romei") would intone a hymn to the most excellent of all cities, red with the purple blood of the martyrs and white with the lilies of the virgins of Christ. Hostelries, hospices, colleges and even private houses, which were subject to the law of hospitality, were full to overflowing with pilgrims; alleyways and piazzas resounded night and day to the footsteps of the pious as they filled the air with their litanies. The night was lit up by the torches of the confraternities who ceaselessly enlivened the streets of the central quarters. 'Midst so much fervour, even the cruel spectacle of the flagellants no longer inspired horror: the crack of the scourges with which the ascetics tormented their lacerated sweat- and blood-covered backs formed a counterpoint to the chaste chanting of novices in their cool cloisters.

No sooner had they arrived in the city of the Vicar of Christ than the pilgrims would converge upon Saint Peter's, and only after praying at the tomb of the apostle would they allow themselves a few hours' respite. On the next day, before leaving their lodgings, they would kneel on the ground, raise their hearts heavenward, cross themselves and meditate upon the life of Christ and of the Most Holy Virgin Mary; then, telling their rosary beads, they would begin the tour of the four Jubilee basilicas, followed by the Forty-hour Oration and the ascent of the Holy Ladder, whereby to obtain total and complete remission of sins.

All in all, everything seemed to be moving in perfect and joyous harmony for the twenty-fifth recurrence of those Jubilees which, since the time of Boniface VIII, had brought tens of thousands of Romei to Rome; and yet one could not truly say "everything", for an undertow of anguish and distress moved silently through the crowds of pilgrims and Romans: His Holiness was gravely ill.

Two years previously, Pope Innocent XII (whose baptismal name had been Antonio Pignatelli) had been struck down by a severe form of gout, which had gradually worsened until it prevented him from attending to affairs after the manner accustomed. In January of the Holy Year, there had been a slight improvement in his condition, and in February he had been able to hold a consistory. Owing to age and its infirmities, he was, however, in no condition to open the Holy Gate. The further the Holy Year advanced, the greater the number of pilgrims who arrived in Rome, and the Pope complained of his inability to accomplish the customary acts of devotion, in which bishops and cardinals had to substitute for him. The Cardinal Penitentiary heard the confessions of the faithful at Saint Peter's, where they arrived daily in their thousands.

In the last week of February, the Pontiff suffered a relapse. In April, he found the strength to bless the multitudes of the devout from the balcony of the Papal Palace at Monte Cavallo. In May, he even visited the four basilicas in person, and towards the end of the month he received the Grand Duke of Tuscany. By halfway through June, he seemed almost recovered; he had visited many churches as well as the fountain of San Pietro in Montorio, a stone's throw from the Villa Spada.

Nevertheless, all knew that His Holiness's health was as delicate as a snowflake in the advancing spring, and the heat of the summer months promised nothing good. Those close to the Pontiff spoke sotto voce of frequent crises of debility, of nightlong sufferings, of sudden and most cruel bouts of colic. After all, as the cardinals murmured gravely among themselves, the Holy Father was fourscore-and-five years of age.

There was, in other words, a distinct possibility that the Jubilee of the year 1700, happily inaugurated by Our Lord Innocent XII, might be closed by another pope: his successor. This was something unheard of, so people murmured in Rome; and yet was it not unthinkable. Some predicted a conclave in November, some, even in August. The most pessimistic opined that the heat of the summer would overwhelm the Pontiff's last defences.

The humour of the Curia (and that of every Roman) was thus torn between the serene atmosphere of the Jubilee and the grave tidings concerning the Pope's health. Even I had an intense personal interest in the question; for as long as the Holy Father lived, I would have the honour, however occasionally, of serving him whom Rome feared and honoured above all others: His Eminence Cardinal Spada, whom His Holiness had appointed as his Secretary of State.