Most Italians look wonderfully fit and healthy, until they open their mouths. Dental treatment in Italy is very expensive and, unfortunately for them but fortunately for their dentists, Italians tend to wait until they have serious problems with their teeth before making an appointment. They treat their teeth as they do their ancient monuments, waiting until they are almost beyond repair rather than investing in continuous maintenance. Why bother to do a temporary fixing when you could wait until there is a really big job to be done?
Politics
“The government is seen as an alien, hostile organisation to which the people have no real link.”
Centuries of government by foreign powers have given the Italians a strange idea of government. It is not viewed as a friendly public organism designed to protect and look after their interests at home and abroad. Rather it is seen as an alien, hostile organisation to which the people have no real link or sense of belonging, one that is hungry for taxes that will go into the pockets of the current group of fat cats who are running it. Fortunately, it can conveniently be blamed for the nation’s problems. An old political cartoon sums up the Italians’ attitude. A man is standing on his doorstep looking out at the pouring rain. The caption reads: ‘It’s raining. The Government’s a bunch of crooks.’
“As it was always obvious who would win any election, the majority of Italians became used to being on the winning side.”
Italy has had upwards of 58 different governments since the Second World War, but until 1994 its politics were basically dominated by one political party, the Christian Democrats, kept in power by a coalition of allies. Cambio di governo came to mean a cabinet reshuffle rather than a ‘change of government’. So, as it was always obvious who would win any election, the majority of Italians became used to being on the winning side. Much of the present uncertainty in Italian politics is that people are no longer sure which is the winning side.
Italian politicians behave in much the same way as their ancestors. The power struggles, political corruption and clientalism that plagued the Late Roman Empire are alive and well in Italy today.
Italy is a country which seems to survive despite the efforts of its politicians to ruin it. The Italians love playing politics and the aim of the game is often difficult for foreigners to understand. One of the rules of Italian politics is that nothing which is said means exactly what it appears to, and de-codifying the speeches of the nation’s leading politicians is an art form in itself.
“Politics permeates Italian life, and office or boardroom meetings can be fraught with tension.”
Politics permeates Italian life, and office or boardroom meetings can be fraught with tension. The most highly charged meeting of all is that held annually in every apartment building, the riunione di condiminio. No holds are barred as administrators and homeowners spend hours heatedly debating whether the front façade should be redecorated. If you can survive one of these meetings successfully and have actually enjoyed it, then you are probably ready to become a rising star on the Italian political circuit.
Achieving power and patronage are regarded as all-important goals; a Sicilian saying runs ‘Comandare è meglio di fottere’ (‘Ruling is better than screwing’). And yet, perversely, in Italian politics it is often considered more important to destroy what your rivals are trying to build than to try and build something yourself.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately), the Italian people, like the Roman mob of old, can still be kept happy and quiet with ‘bread and circuses’ and Italian politicians and leaders know this. It is no accident that Italy has one of the best football league championships in the world. Matches starring the world’s most expensive football players have replaced the gladiatorial combats and displays in the Colosseum.
The labels of Italy’s political parties have often been very confusing. The Liberals were never particularly liberal, the Socialists not especially socialist, the Communists definitely not communist, and the Christian Democrats neither very Christian nor very democratic.
“Italians worry enormously about what should be labelled right- and left-wing.”
Italians, particularly those on the left, worry enormously about what should be labelled right- and left-wing. Debates take place over whether bodybuilding is right-wing, or whether employing a home help is left-wing, anxieties not lessened by the increasing awareness that it really makes little difference either way. And in the end, despite their great individuality, the Italians tend to follow the herd instinct. It was one of their own, Italian journalist Indro Montanelli, who said that they are ‘pecore indisciplinate’ (undisciplined sheep).
“There are so many laws and ministerial directives in the Italian system that their strict application can more or less paralyse any bureaucratic procedure.”
All Italians believe that long bureaucratic procedures are of the utmost importance, but for gli altri, of course, not for themselves. Without these procedures other Italians would most certainly get up to every kind of mischief. Moreover, there are so many powerful interests involved in the Italian bureaucratic system that it is unlikely that anything will change. The Italian state earns vast revenues from the fact that many bureaucratic or legal procedures involve carta bollata (taxable, officially stamped paper), and the same procedures also keep hundreds of thousands of civil servants in gainful employment. The longer the bureaucratic process, the greater the number of people involved. Furthermore, without the long bureaucratic process, there would be no point in circumventing it, and the thousands of galoppini (unofficial specialists in accelerating bureaucratic procedures) would also be without employment.
There are so many laws and ministerial directives in the Italian system (it has been calculated that to be entirely in line with the law, an Italian citizen should know some 800,000 rules), and they are so diverse, complicated and often contradictory, that their strict application can more or less paralyse any bureaucratic procedure. And because even minor civil servants have very strong powers in Italy, to accept, refuse or delay requests or procedures, they are treated with enormous respect and courtesy, especially when they are wearing uniform. Conversely, the officials ‘become’ their jobs when they are in uniform and expect to be treated with the kind of deference northern Europeans reserve for crowned Heads of State.
“Every citizen knows that falling foul of the system, by upsetting the wrong official or not contacting the right middle man could mean years of waiting.”
Italian bureaucracy needs to be approached tactically. If approached the wrong way, officials become intransigent and will make little or no effort to help you solve your problem. If approached the Italian way, it can be flexible enough to permit a solution to be found.
Every citizen knows that falling foul of the system, by upsetting the wrong official or not contacting the right middle man could mean years of waiting. Officials can make your life easy or difficult, depending upon their whims. A Californian teaching at an Italian university wanted to take some courses. In order to enrol he went to the university admissions office and was told that he would need a copy of his university degree certificate, with a translation certified by the Italian consulate in Los Angeles. Having gone to California during the summer vacation and obtained the necessary certificate and translation, he returned to the admissions office. “Ah, very good, now all we need is a copy of your high school diploma.” The Californian’s protestations that obviously he couldn’t have entered university without a high school diploma were of no avail. According to the admissions office he had to return to Los Angeles, get it and have its translation certified by the Italian consulate there. In the end he was forced to do what he had wanted to avoid doing at the beginning, which was to ask one of his senior colleagues to do him a favour and intervene so that he could by-pass the official.